Whiskey Or Whisky 101 - The Basics Of A Great Drink (Part 2)

April 14, 2004

Recently, Cigar Weekly's resident whisk(e)y enthusiasts Linn Spencer (Linn) and Doug Kuebler (Jazznut) got together on-line with a select group of members to have a casual chat on the basics of their favorite liquors, whiskies. Given the wealth of information which emerged from their conversation, we thought it worthwhile to share. Here is a portion of that exchange. We hope you enjoy it!

The following is the second of two parts. Read the first part here.

Doug (Jazznut):

"Linn's touched on the question of different sorts of whiskies and how they affect your constitution, so I'm going to try and take a further stab at this.

The distillation of a good whisky not only seeks to achieve a relatively pure alcoholic substance, but also to retain some of the flavorful characteristics of the grains from which it was extracted. And as the fresh spirit is subsequently matured in casks, it smoothens and acquires additional flavor elements from exposure to wood and air.

This business of 'whisky' versus 'whiskey' is a tenuous one at best. For instance, those drinks called 'whisky' include spirits produced in Scotland, Japan, Canada, Tennessee and even New Zealand and India, while those drinks named 'whiskey' include Bourbon and Irish. Better to concentrate on what grains they are actually produced from, how they are made and how good they taste.

Jim Murray's "Complete Book of Whisky" is as good a place to start reading up on this subject as any. And do forgive him for using the whisky spelling in his title. Murray loves a good Bourbon as much as anyone!

True, you are probably better off sticking to 'straight' whiskies. But that's not to say there aren't excellent blends out there. Johnnie Walker Black 12 Year Old is a far better drink than many are willing to openly admit. The Gold Label 18 Year Old displays wonderful complexity owing to its core of Clynelish. And Gordon Grahams 10 Year Old Black Bottle, with its lovely Islay smokiness, consistently ranks in the top rung of blended scotches. I certainly wouldn't want to deny myself the pleasure of, say, Crown Royal Limited Edition or Canadian Club Classic 12 Year Old either. Quality is something you really have to determine for yourself, regardless of the specific type of spirit you're dealing with.

I should also alert you to the exceptionally fine Scotch whisky 'blends' sometimes known as 'vatted malts'. These are pure barley malt whiskies made by combining many different single malts together. Two very fine examples are Johnnie Walker 15 Year Old Pure Malt Green Label and Chivas Century of Malts.

As a final note, take heed to maintain a proper level of hydration when imbibing alcohol of any sort. Drinking a good amount of water before, during and after alcoholic consumption will help enormously in preventing hangovers. Many people unfairly blame their 'mornings after' on the perceived poor quality of whatever they were drinking the night before, when they in fact simply neglected to take proper preventative measures.

As Linn would suggest, miniature bottles and your local bar can be your best bets in terms of exploring various libations. What's the point in purchasing a whole bottle of something you end up disliking? Many bars with decent whiskey menus now offer 'tasting groups' whereby one can order 3 or so different ones to taste next to one another. This is the very best way to make up your mind as to what you like and what you don't.

Further to the flavor intensities of various single malt Scotches, let me suggest a graduation scale according to region

If you're looking for gentle malts, the Lowland and Midland ones are ideal. Auchentoshan is probably the best bet amongst the Lowlanders, although excellent whiskies from the closed Rosebank site are still available. As for the Midland malts, Edradour, Glengoyne and Glenturret are all fine examples.

Highland malts offer a tremendous range of styles, from the softly herbal complexity of Glenlivet through the sherried whiskies of Aberlour, Glendronach, Glenfarclas and Macallan to the earthy style of the older Glen Gariochs. You could spend forever exploring just this one region.

Now, if youre ready for some additional zip, the coastal malts are where to head. These often display saltiness, spiciness, and sometimes smokiness, from their proximity to the sea and the manner in which their barley has been malted. They may be considered as 'crossover' malts in that sense. Oban from the west coast, Clynelish, Dalmore and Glenmorangie from the northeastern shoreline, and Springbank from the Campbeltown area all produce prime examples of this style.

Then there are the out-and-out smoky ones, the island malts. It may be subtle or 'in your face', but there's no mistaking the smokiness of certain whiskies which results from their barley grains being dried over peat-infused fires. The smokiness can range from a barely perceptible hint, as in Bunnahabhain from Islay, through to the pungency of a Lagavulin or Laphroaig.

Peat is a highly vegetative kind of earth which, in the old days, was the fuel of preference for both economic and stylistic reasons amongst Scottish distillers. It remains a key ingredient in the crafting of many single malts."

Tor (Skol):

"Thanks all for the great replies. I was looking for a list of 'introductory' whiskies and you delivered marvelously, I now have enough information to get my feet wet. One last question that seems to have gotten lost in the fray is how you prepare your Bourbon. Or, I guess, do the same rules apply for Bourbon as they do for scotch?"

Kevin (SmoKerch):

"I like my whiskey in a old-fashioned glass. I pour two fingers of liquor and add one ice-cube, then sip the whiskey, roll it over my tongue, swallow and enjoy!"

Doug (Jazznut):

"Kevin's right. Its all about the way you like to drink your whisky. There are basically no rules. A drop or a few of pure, still water will help open up the aroma, especially if the whisky has a higher than standard alcoholic strength. Adding ice as Kevin does will tend to accentuate fruity characteristics, yet may also suppress subtler flavors. But a drink is a drink, and you shouldn't hesitate to enjoy it any way you want to."

Tor (Skol):

"Linn, is there any chance I could persuade you and the others to name a few good 'starter' American whiskies, in the same vein Doug has done with Scottish whiskies? What's good is not always best for a novice. For instance, I wouldn't hand someone who's looking to try beer for the first time a hearty porter or extra stout, but rather a summer wheat beer or pale ale."

Tom (ColbyPants):

"Personally Tor, I have never found a Bourbon I would out and out refuse if offered to me. Linn may be able to do this better than I, but I will take a stab at Bourbon suggestions for a novice.

First off, if you are new to this stuff in general, stay away from the higher proofs until your palate is acclimatized, because the alcohol will just turn you off. This seems to be an issue more with Bourbon than almost any other spirit I have seen, as several bottlings hover at, or above, 100 proof.

I started with whiskies in the 86 to 95 proof range that I would generally describe as sweet and mild tasting, or more refined. Blantons and Woodford Reserve are good examples of this. Bourbons like Old Forester, Very Old Barton, and Wild Turkey - my favorite line, try the Russells Reserve 10 Year Old at some point - have a higher rye content in their mashbills, which seems to translate into bolder, spicier tastes.

Many beginners seem to like Maker's Mark, which replaces wheat for the rye in its mashbill, leaving an arguably smoother and more subtle whiskey. But I have generally found it tastes dull. If you can find them, there are 7 year 90 proof WL Weller and 10 year 90 proof Van Winkle bottlings. These two are good 'beginner's' examples of 'wheated' Bourbon.

Personally, I put two ice-cubes in an old fashioned glass and then pour enough Bourbon to float those suckers - always when I am sure I will be in for the evening, because this is a healthy pour. Every now and then I use a snifter as well."

Linn (Linn):

"Tor, let's look at something from every distillery. All of these are also be available in 375ml bottles, or 'pints'.

From Jim Beam, I'd suggest either the standard 80 proof 4 year old 'White Label' or the older 86 proof 'Black Label'. From Heaven Hill, go with the 'Black Label' 86 proof Evan Williams. From Wild Turkey, just get a bottle of the standard 101 proof Wild Turkey. From Buffalo Trace, try Ancient Ancient Age 86 proof. Leave the standard Ancient Age on the shelf as it is just too young. Maker's Mark only makes one brand and that is Maker's Mark. From Barton, Very Old Barton. I am pretty sure this is only available in Kentucky.

In terms of availability outside of Kentucky, try Kentucky Gentleman. It's a bit young, but it is Barton whiskey. And do taste the 90 proof Virginia Gentleman, also known as 'The Fox' for its fox hunting scene on the label and raised fox's head on the bottle, from the A. Smith Bowman distillery in Virginia.

From Four Roses comes a young 80 proof 'Yellow Label' that is only available in Kentucky and Indiana. You're not missing much with this one.

OK. That does it! For total of about $50, you can get a 375ml bottle of Bourbon from each of the distillers. You'll have an instant Bourbon collection of sorts and you'll be able to do side by side taste comparisons to boot."

Tom (ColbyPants):

"Yeah, 'pints' are a good size for a trial - not too big, but enough for you to get multiple pours. Sometimes a whiskey will grow on you!"

John (Smokinactuary):

"Linn, didn't Maker's Mark used to have a bottling with a gold wax seal? It has been a long time, but I remember that it was quite good."

Linn (Linn):

"Yes, John. They sure did! They were a one-time deal, and I've a friend in Kentucky that has three or four in his Bourbo-bunker for long term storage. The last I heard they were going for $250 a pop on EBay. Good if you have some for sale. Bad if you want some to drink.

But honestly, I'd rather have some Kentucky Spirit. A real Wild Turkey fan owes themselves the $40 indulgence of Kentucky Spirit Single Barrel. I think I'd pass everything else up for a bottle of this. But that's because I'm in love with the stuff.

By the way Doug, is there a Scotch that tastes like Bourbon?"

Doug (Jazznut):

"Well, not exactly Linn. But how about I pour you some Aberlour a'bunadh cask-strength or 31 year old cask-strength vintage Auchentoshan? I'd lay even odds one of these, if not both, might please your fine Bourbon-tuned palate.

Say Linn, I've often wondered about what, if any, the optimum time for maturing Bourbon in barrels might be. I know with single malt Scotch whiskies that this time can vary, depending on particular casks and distillates. Is it the same with Bourbons?"

Linn (Linn):

"Doug, one of the best ways to figure out the effects of aging whiskey in charred oak barrels is to try a range of different whiskies from one distillery. And this is easily done with the various readily available ones from the Heaven Hill Distillery in Bardstown, Kentucky.

Raw un-aged whiskey is called 'white dog'. Heaven Hill has a product called 'Georgia Moon' which is nothing more than their white dog watered down to jar proof. It comes in a mason jar. This raw corn liquor is very close to what you might get from your local moonshiner.

Next we have 'Mellow Corn', a 2 year old corn whiskey that was aged in used cooperage. If you eyeball it, you'll notice the mellow straw color, whereas the white dog was clear. This straw color comes from aging in the barrel.

Then we'll add 2 more years of age with the 4 year old 'Henry McKenna'. Aged in new charred white oak barrels, this can now be called straight Bourbon whiskey. You can see the deepening of the color to light amber in this one, and taste that the finish of the whiskey has smoothed out considerably.

OK. Now on to the 7 year old 'Evan Williams'. Again the color is deeper, to the point of being a classic amber. The flavor is also deeper and more complex and the finish is much more refined.

At 12 years of age is Elijah Craig. Its color is a deeper amber with glinting ruby highlights. The flavor has become powerfully robust, and the nose has much more complexity. The finish is long and powerful as new flavors arrive.

Just for grins, you could also toss the 10 year old Evan Williams Single Barrel and the 18 year old Elijah Craig single barrel into the mix. These are both very unique bourbons with their own special merits.

The unifying element between all these whiskies is that they are all made from the exact same recipe. Yep. Heaven Hill has but one bourbon mashbill that Carl Beam brought with him when he was hired by Heaven Hill, right after Prohibition ended. It's been the same to this very day. Carl's son Parker Beam makes it the same way his daddy did, as will Parker's son, master distiller in training Craig Beam, when he takes over the distillery.

So there you go. From birth to 18 years of age. The same sour mash bourbon recipe made in the very same still and by the very same master distiller. All very different, due to aging in the barrel and the rackhouse location of that barrel.

Your homework is to purchase and sample all of the above. Be prepared to discuss the merits of each."

Tor (Skol):

"Finally, homework I enjoy. After three and a half years of college and trying this, that and the other, Linn has helped me find the way to mix school and whiskey without disastrous consequences. Great follow-up!"

Linn Spencer (Linn) is an acknowledged expert in American liquors. His intimate acquaintance with the distillers and distilleries of the eastern United States has earned him a reputation as a tireless advocate for the virtues of their whiskies. Aside from his published articles in The Bourbon Country Reader, Linn has also helped innumerable Cigar Weekly members to discover the myriad pleasures of Bourbon, Rye and Tennessee whiskies.

Doug Kuebler (Jazznut) is a committed taster and collector of wines and spirits, particularly Scotch whiskies. His recently published 2-volume book, entitled The Tumbler's Guide to Single Malt Scotch Whisky, is available through Topeda Hill Publishing.