A Rich Pour - Column No. 9

December 3, 2007

Step back into the warmth of summer and join Cigar Weekly's Managing Editor Doug Kuebler (jazznut) as he recounts a journey taken this past July to one of Ontario's, not to mention North America's, most promising winegrowing regions – Prince Edward County.

A Place of Grape Expectations

Transition

One of the magnificent beaches at Sandbanks Provincial Park

The transition seems almost miraculous. At one instant, Peg and I are traversing the 401, Canada's busiest highway. A few moments later, we find ourselves cruising lazily along a country road through gently rolling terrain, where pockets of mixed forest and marshland vie for prominence with fields of hay, corn and, yes, grapevines. We have arrived in Prince Edward County.

Prince Edward County comprises an irregularly-shaped piece of land extending from the Trenton-Belleville-Deseronto area of southeastern Ontario, just to the west of Kingston, out into the waters of Lake Ontario. It is all but completely separated from the northshore mainland by the Bay of Quinte. Long inhabited by native peoples, the region witnessed a sizable influx of newcomers following the American Revolution. As the 18th Century drew to a close, many Empire Loyalists, so named because they wished to remain under British rule, flocked to this little corner of the Great Lakes.

In recent times, The County, as affectionately known by longtime residents, has experienced more than its fair share of economic malaise despite the magnificent tourist-beckoning beaches at Sandbanks Provincial Park as well as a solid agricultural industry based on fertile soils and a relatively lengthy growing season. But the tide is turning for Prince Edward County. And behind this renewal lies the fruit of the vine and its glorious produce, wine.

Not that all is rosy. Local vintners still have to cope with bracing winters, when severe cold snaps can necessitate protecting the vines with mounded earth or straw. And the search for which varieties fare well in specific locales and microclimates continues unabated in many parts of the region. In this regard, Prince Edward County is following in the footsteps of its better-known and now firmly established Ontario counterpart, the Niagara.

Worth in the earth

Bottled bounty of Prince Edward County

What is The County's ace in the hole? The land itself, or, as the French would say, the terroir. This particular terroir owes its special qualities to the latter portion of the last great Ice Age, during which receding glaciers scoured fragile Silurian rock into a bed of fissured limestone variously topped with sandy loam and clay. Can you say Burgundy? Many sage individuals already have.

Of course, the Burgundian allusion conjures visions of elegant Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, a few of which can indeed already be found. Nonetheless, it would be myopic to suggest that these two varieties account for all of the area's vinous worth. For there are numerous other fermented pleasures to discover, including Baco Noir, Cabernet, Merlot, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Vidal.

First impression

My first inkling of the emerging excellence of the local wines occurs in the stylish tasting room at Carmela Estates Winery, located at the western end of the region near the hamlet of Hillier. Here, as late afternoon storm clouds begin to menace the horizon, I quickly fall victim to winemaker Norman Hardie's charming 2005 Terroir Twist, a refreshing mélange of Riesling, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay that immediately induces thoughts of a friendly patio gathering.

A portion of the vineyards at Carmela Estates Winery		The main reception building at Carmela Estates Winery houses both a tasting bar and an excellent restaurant

Shooting for the stars

The next morning, Peg and I venture under once again sunny skies to the other side of Hillier to visit Closson Chase Vineyards. Though the vines here are young and much of the fruit utilized still emanates from the the Niagara region, there's no doubting the serious nature of the enterprise. Deborah Paskus, who left the topsy-turvy world of advertising for the even more risky endeavour of crafting top-quality wines, has managed to attract significant financial and hands-on support as well as the attention of the critics. Her Pinot Noir being available only on a strict allotment basis, I have to settle for sipping the classically structured 2005 Beamsville Bench Chardonnay, which sees nothing but French oak during its fermentation and maturation stages, and the captivating 2006 County Sans Chêne Chardonnay, a more playful mouthful touched by a hint of botrytis. Talk about a good start to the day!

Fragrant lavender and well-tended grapes at Closson Chase Vineyards		A stylish old barn now serves as the reception building at Closson Chase Vineyards

Contemporary and confident

The cool and contemporarily styled entrance to Huff Estates Winery, where outdoor lunches are accompanied by jazz and the wines make their own music

Onward and eastward we continue to Huff Estates Winery, situated to the north of the town of Wellington. "Are we in Prince Edward County or Napa?" I think to myself as we stroll up the pathway towards the modern concrete-clad main building. This initial sensation of coldness is quickly dispelled upon entering and walking over to the large tasting counter, however, as the convivial staff go out of their way to relay their enthusiasm for each pour into the glass. Having already become acquainted with Huff's fine, crisply effervescent 2006 Off Dry Riesling over dinner the previous evening, I feel anxious to give Frederic Picard's reds a whirl. Though the intensely rich, oak-aged,bursting-with-fruit Gamay proves an eye-opener and the South Bay Cabernet/Merlot an alluring exercise in elegance, neither can match the 2004 Merlot Reserve for sheer opulence.

Pioneer spirits

Fine dining is but another of the pleasures at Waupoos Estates Winery

After stopping in The County's main municipality of Picton to browse the shops and grab a much-needed bite of lunch, Peg and I head southeast towards Waupoos on Prince Edward Bay. We have reserved an on-the-water bed and breakfast establishment for the night as well as dinner at the picturesque Waupoos Estates Winery Restaurant, a mere five minute walk away.

We make it to the winery's tasting room just as the owners, Ed Neuser and Rita Kaimins, are getting ready to close up shop. Yet this doesn't prevent the two from exhorting us to try one wine after another, including a nicely balanced 2005 Vidal, an award-winning 2005 Baco Noir and a surprisingly sophisticated 2005 De Chaunac, which I end up ordering again that evening while dining on the estate's outdoor terrace. These mini-revelations just go to show that wines produced from hybrids, in the right conditions, can really work.

The grounds of Waupoos Estates Winery on a summer evening

Ed and Rita are true pioneers of the local winegrowing industry, having dealt with the vagaries of the vine for well over a decade now. This reality is etched in their often forthright but never less than engaging manner. On our visit, Ed does double duty as wine server during dinner. And both he and Rita linger long into the evening at their own gardenside table, the couple's facial expressions and quiet conversation mirroring the contentment of their guests.

To be continued

Over the course of our short stay, Peg and I barely scratch the surface of a local viticultural scene that now boasts more than 30 vineyards and wineries. Rest assured, the beauty of the beaches, the quality of the wines and food, the comfortable accomodations, the warmth of the people and the relaxing atmosphere of The County will have us back in no time. After all, there should soon be even more wineries to visit!

November postscript

A quiet autumn evening at home. Dinner consists of Orgoglio pasta tossed in a wild mushroom and sun-dried tomato cream sauce enhanced with carmelized onion and garlic, Prince Edward County Riesling, basil, oregano, thyme and black pepper. What wine to serve? I pop the cork on a graciously gifted bottle of 2002 Dry Riesling from Waupoos Estates Winery. The wine's melding of ripe peaches and petrol, bolstered by tightly integrated acidity, is everything one would hope for in a mature Riesling, be it from the river valleys of southern Germany, Alsace, Australia or – of course – The County!

Referenced articles / websites

Allemang, John. "Gone to the County", Special to the Globe and Mail, Saturday June 19, 2004, Toronto, Canada, www.globeandmail.com

Lawrason, David. "A Wine Balance", Special to the Globe and Mail, Saturday August 28, 2004, Toronto, Canada, page D4, www.thecounty.ca/wine/press_winebalance.html

Ogryzlo, Lynn. "What We CAN Do!", Tidings, July/August 2007, www.tidingsmag.com

Stimmell, Gordon. "Prince Edward County ready to pour it on", Special to the Toronto Star, July 11, 2007, www.thestar.com

Information on Lake Ontario was also gathered from Wikipedia, www.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Ontario

Doug Kuebler (Jazznut) is an inveterate aficionado and collector of wines and whiskies from around the world. Doug has organized wine and food seminars, written extensively on wines and liquors, and also gained something of a reputation for his detailed analyses of cigars. His latest book set, The Tumbler's Guide to Single Malt Scotch Whisky: Desk Reference and Field Guide, is available from Topeda Hill Publishing.